Last Day in Yellowstone

 Up again before dawn. Truck packed and today is the day we say goodbye to Yellowstone, but not before we make our way back through the park in one last attempt to scope out some wildlife. Our coffee and breakfast search led us to McDonald's. Luckily, they were also early risers. Travel munchies in my hand and Josie's coffee in hers, we turned to the park. Passing by the ranger's hut and flashing the credentials, we were back inside. It was dark and a little foggy but nothing like the previous morning. A faint ribbon of light lined the horizon. Traveling up the Madison River, we noticed a heavy fog laying down the valley. Several cars lined a pull out along the river, so we stopped to see what they were looking at. It was elk. We hadn't seen many elk on this trip. They were along the river, and I saw a unique photo op with the combination of early light, fog, river and the elk. I was able to get the most unique shots of the trip.

Daylight broke while we were watching the elk and the fog lifted. It promised to be a great weather day. We continued on down the river to Madison Junction and then back north. We looked hard for any wildlife all the way back across the park's interior and ended up back at Fishing Bridge. Here the Yellowstone River flows from the lake and was good for a few waterfowl but nothing to get excited about. 

We took a side road that went along side Yellowstone Lake, and it gave us some good views of the lake and a few geese and ducks. But I didn't come here to photo water birds.

After the geese and ducks, we headed for the area where we had seen Snow a few days ago. The lake behind us and climbing elevation we soon rounded a corner and saw the biggest bear jam of the trip. So many cars that it was impossible to find a safe place to park. We went on past and went up on a high observation point to scope it out. The lake laid out in front of us and distant mountains showing their splendor, Josie decided she wanted out for a photo. Of all the people in the park, a Georgia man came over to my window and inquired about my RBL YEL license plate. Now people either love em or hate em. This Southern Gentleman apparently loved em. I explained to him that I used to ride in a Confederate Cavalry Civil War Reenactment group, and we all had personalized plates. He was all in favor of my plates. Now back to the jam.

From our high vantage point, we could see the crowd looking over the ridge but could not see the bears. We decided to make our way back down and find a spot to park. Unfortunately for me the parking spot was too far away for me to safely travel to the wildlife, but Josie could easily make it. After about 20 minutes, she came back all smiles. She showed me the photos and I recognized then as Raspberry and Jam. Raspberry is Snow's mother and Jam is her half-sister. I wasn't able to get any photos of them, but Josie got a few.

That was a bonus for Josie. Four grizzly bears total for this trip. Perfect morning. We retraced our steps back up to Sylvan Lake and then through the pass. We started the long decent down the mountainside and exited the park. It had been a great 3 days in the park, but we weren't done yet. Wyoming and the west are much more than Yellowstone and, on the way home I had several stops planned. Those being The Black Hills, Devil's Tower, Spearfish Canyon and The Badlands.

We made our way back down the Shoshone River valley to Cody. We decided to cut the distance to home and headed across the wide-open country toward Buffalo, Wyoming across the Big Horns. There's a whole lot of nothing across the interior of Wyoming except for the occasional Mule Deer and Antelope. We arrived in Buffalo in early evening we decided to look for a place to stay. Apparently, everybody else was looking too and we settled for a Super 8 that was not the best. But we made do. Tomorrow promised more adventure. On to the Black Hills and Devil's Tower and whatever else we can find.

Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks Part 2

 After the huge grizzly sighting, our journey continued on to Madison Junction. Firehole Canyon was but a few miles away and a worthy side trip for sure. The Firehole River is named that because the origin of the water is the runoff from the numerous thermal features and the water has to go somewhere. The river runs through the canyon and over a drop off called.... you guessed it... Firehole Falls. There was an amazing lack of wildlife along the drive, so we headed back to Madison Junction and turned west along the Madison River. We had accommodations in West Yellowstone, Montana so we decided to head there and check in. Normally along the Madison one would be able to see all sorts of wildlife, but keeping with the theme of the trip, sightings were scarce. Oh wait, we did see a dead swan. Out of respect for him and his swan buddies, we decided not to take any photos. Besides, you never know if it was a crime scene or not.

Crossing into Montana, Josie gained another new state. We are racking them up for her. After a brief search, we found Yellowstone Inn. We checked in and unloaded our stuff. Taking a break from all the windshield time, I looked over the map. And then it hit me like a bolt out of the blue. Josie, I said. Have you ever been to Idaho? She had not. Let's go, we are only 10 minutes from the state line. So, back in the truck and pointed to the Idaho state line, we gained her another new state. 

Montana had their stuff together, but Idaho lacked a state sign. So, take my word for it, she was in Idaho for a brief period of time.

West Yellowstone Montana is a tourist town, there is no doubt. But it is also the home of Pete's Mountain Pizza. I had enough of the Cooler Cafe and had a hankerin' for pizza. Besides, it's an unwritten law when in West Yellowstone, I must eat here. Since I'm a law-abiding citizen, we found a parking place and went in. 

It was busy but we got a seat pretty quick right beside a young family. Their 2-year-old was busy destroying a ketchup bottle and the older sibling was assisting her. Normally annoyed by such antics, I was just glad they weren't any of my kids or grandkids. Josie was well behaved. Breadstix and pizza ordered, we sat back and took it all in. Some guy asked me what I thought about the pizza, and I went on about how good it was, then he ordered the pasta. Some shady guy was walking around the place just looking at each table, so I kept my eye on him. Apparently, he was just odd and harmless. Situational awareness and old habits are hard to break. 

Then, the pizza came. Yes, I was grateful for the Cooler Cafe and all the money it saved me but now I had pizza. So, right there next to a juvenile demolition wrecking crew, bent on destruction of a ketchup bottle and a guy in a pizza joint who likes pasta more than pizza, and a weird but seemingly harmless dude, we ate our pizza. It was good, so good I only ate half and boxed the other half for later.

Road weary, full of pizza, and the law satisfied, it was time to get out of the truck for the night and get some much-needed rest. Besides, tomorrow promised to be great because Grand Teton Park and Old Faithful was on the agenda. More extended windshield time, but that's the price to pay to see this glorious land and all its treasures.

Before daylight we were back on the road. With a night's rest behind us, we had things to do and see. Nature was going to make us work for it today though. The fog was so thick and anything but pretty. Oh man... there were things that could be in the road in this thick fog that could ruin your trip. One bison in your grill would be all it took. 

But first, coffee for Josie. There are priorities ya know. Coffee obtained and creamer applied, we headed for the entrance to the park. Dark and foggy. I can deal with the dark, but not a fan of the fog.

We had planned to catch Old Faithful early on the way to the Tetons to avoid the crowds, but the fog forced us to change plans. The Tetons first, let the fog burn off and Old Faithful on the return trip. So, we settled in for the long trip south to Grand Teton Park and hopeful for wildlife along the way. It wasn't long, we were delayed by a huge bull bison appearing in the fog. Discretion dictated to give him the right of way. Then our old friend road construction showed up, again and again and again.

Upon our arrival to Grand Teton, the fog had lifted, and the Autumn morning and colors were amazing. I'll let the photos tell this part.

Grand Teton Park did not disappoint. The trees were perfect and the mountains majestic. My only complaint was the lack of wildlife. Seems to be a theme for the trip. But the scenery was great and the company perfect, I was more than grateful for the experience.

On our way back north to get back to Old Faithful, we came across a small wildlife jam. It was for a bull moose. Problem was, he was far off the road, laying down and didn't seem interested in showing himself. He was barely visible through the binoculars, but we did see him, so it counted as a first for Josie. No photographic proof though, just memories.

Our luck and poor timing landed us at Old Faithful right after it had erupted, leaving us with about 90 minutes to wait until the next one. But on the bright side, we had our choice of seating. We strategically placed ourselves on the front row with an unobstructed view and settled in for the wait. Miss Josie took a hike around the geyser field to pass the time and I guarded our great seats. 

Old Faithful has a way of teasing the crowd with small eruptions before the main event. Usually, 3 small steam events and then it's a go. True to form she began her teasing. After the 2nd one, I heard a lady behind us say...is that it? We waited all this time for that? She gathered up her family and stormed off. After she left, Old Faithful put on her show.... well played geyser, well played.

It was well worth the wait and especially since Josie was a first timer, it was priceless. 

It was about an hour and a half before dark, so we started back toward West Yellowstone. We came across a herd of bison with people trying to get up close and personal for the perfect Kodak shot. That's why telephoto lenses were invented but I digress. I was going to stop and document the possible impending carnage but alas, no safe parking place could be found. 

Just about 10 miles from West Yellowstone, we came across a huge bison jam. Traffic was backed up for miles. Binoculars revealed the reason. The bison had taken possession of the bridge and had traffic stopped both directions. Luckily a well-placed, non-mother approved, National Park Service issued pit toilet was accessible. We took advantage of it and then we set upwind along the river until the jam dissolved. 

I had left over pizza waiting for me, so ends the day.

Yellowstone and Grand Teton Parks Part 1

 Up before dawn, everything packed and eager to leave the dysfunctional neighbors behind, we were off in search of Josie's coffee. Luckily there was an early to rise gas station to oblige us for supplies and gas. Coffee in her hand and what passed for a breakfast for me in mine, we headed for the park. 

The 50 miles along the Shoshone River is reported to be the most scenic highway in America. That's open for debate but it has its charms. The road winds thru canyons and along the river which usually produces numerous wildlife encounters, but our luck was not the greatest this morning. For whatever reason, this trip was scarce in wildlife so far but rich in rewards for just being there and having my travel companion along. Stachia had made me promise to show Josie the outdoor chapel where we were married. A nice placed called Wayside Chapel. It was on the mountain side above the river and about 5 miles outside the park's entrance. Mission accomplished.

The sun was rising behind us as we approached the East Entrance of the park. I gave my pass to the Ranger and was rewarded with a map and a current newsletter for the park. Without looking at it I knew that somewhere in the newsletter was a warning not to pet the bison and stay away from the bears, moose and elk. It's always a wise policy to give those wild ones their space to be wild and not invade their privacy. What don't kill you, makes you stronger. Except bears.... bears will kill you. Oh, and so will moose, elk, bison and just about anything else in the park. We considered ourselves warned. We were in the park and smarter than the average tourist. 

Immediately inside the park the road climbs up and there's a rapid gain in elevation. As you climb, the mountain scenery is amazing and with the sun rising behind us it was fantastic. About halfway to the top there was a strategically placed, not mother approved, National Park issued, pit toilet. Never look a gift horse in the mouth and never pass up a pit toilet in the wilderness, especially with the aforementioned breakfast choice. 

Disaster averted, the climb to Sylvan Pass and Sylvan Lake continued. Sylvan Lake is an alpine lake that sits near the top of the pass. The light was perfect, the wind was calm and the reflections were photo worthy. Photo op for sure.

Once you reach the lake the road begins to descend toward a large body of water known as Yellowstone Lake. I had high hopes for seeing Grizzlies in this area, but nothing is certain. But I remained hopeful. My hope was rewarded about halfway down. As we rounded a corner, we were met with what is known as a bear jam. A bear jam is multiple cars parked and people out looking and hopefully a bear. After parking we took part in the bear jam. Before I was out of the truck, I recognized this grizzly as a bear I'd seen before and even had photographed her. Her name is Snow and she gets her name from her light-colored fur which is a combination of blonde and silver. She was not far off the road and calmly walking and occasionally stopping and looking for food. She appeared to be okay with the large audience she had attracted and behaved well. I had my camera up and it was busy. Josie was all smiles and happy because this was her first bear in the wild. After about 5 minutes of watching this beautiful, calm grizzly bear, some yahoo felt the need to approach her. This did not sit well with her, and she bolted for cover and within a few seconds was gone. Just like that, Josie's first bear was gone, but the memories will remain.

Snow

 

Snow leaving.

Well, that was worth the early rise, and our timing was near perfect. Yes, finally our luck turned for the better. We had a grizzly early in the day, so the rest of the day had to be great. Any time spent in Yellowstone is great. I wanted to thump the moron that scared Snow, but I managed to control the urge. Apparently, this chowder head didn't read the part about staying away from the bears.

We continued on down the mountain and was presented with great views of Yellowstone Lake and a few bison. Crossing Fishing Bridge, we turned north through Hayden Valley. Normally full of wildlife, this time it was not. Just a few scattered bison, a few water birds and a whole lot of open space greeted us. 

Journeying north we visited the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone. Josie took a few short trails and was rewarded with great views of the falls. Leaving Canyon, we continued north up and over Mt. Washburn and more high mountain views, switchbacks and wilderness before arriving at Tower. Arriving at Tower, I suggested the short trail down to the falls. Out the door Josie went and a few minutes later, she was back. Man, she is a fast hiker.

On the way to Mammoth Spring, we stopped at a few thermal features and other minor attractions. Expecting large numbers of elk at Mammoth, we were disappointed because there was none. First time I'd been there when there were none. No elk? What is wrong? Well, at least the calcite springs showed up and gave us some great photos. 

Josie and the springs.

Making our way south from Mammoth towards Madison Junction, we rounded a curve and several cars were parked right in the road. Approaching slowly and cautiously, we were rewarded with a glimpse of a large male grizzly walking through the woods, just off the road. Quite possibly the largest grizzly I had ever seen. But just like that, he was gone. I'm sure we had just missed him crossing the road, but at least we seen him...and grizzly number 2 in the books.

In the mood for part 2? Hang on... To be continued.

Wyoming Day 2- Big Horn Mountains

 Even with the creepy doll heads in the lobby, we got a good night's rest. Up before dawn and all the pre-journey necessities preformed, we were out the door before the sunrise. With Josie's coffee firmly in her hand, we hit the road. Our journey continued north to Caspar, Wyoming where the Big Horn Mountains came into view on the horizon. Finding our way through the tangled mess of, you guessed it, construction we found our road. Now on to Sheridan where we will cross the mountains.

More wide-open spaces, a few mule deer and antelope and a bunch of miles later we headed west and up. The Aspen and Cottonwood trees were just about at their peak colors. Bright yellows and oranges mixed with some green displayed all across our path. Up and west, we went. The switchbacks gave us a view of what was ahead and a reminder of where we had been and how far up, we were. The valleys and towns we had just gone through were displayed behind us like a living map.

So far, the wildlife had been scarce, but I had high hopes for the Big Horns to change our luck.... but they did not. I had seen elk, moose, bear and numerous deer while crossing here but not today. But we did see some wondrous high country and mountain views that cannot be rivaled. 

Just as we thought we were through and going down the other side, a cattle drive appeared in front of us. Open range cattle were being moved by one lonely cowboy on one disgruntled horse who had forgot his manners this morning. I'm not sure who was riding who, but I think the horse might have had the upper hand because several times he tried to rid the rider of his seat. At least the cattle were behaving. And.....you got it.... more construction. Making our way through the tangle of closed lanes, pavement ends signs and flagmen, we started down the other side. We only thought we had been on switchbacks but now, some of these were so sharp, we could read our own license plate. Lower gear and slow were our friends until we made it to the valley floor.

Big Horn Canyon was just a few miles away. This is one of my favorite side trips and a must for my horse crazy companion traveler to see because of the possibility of wild horses. The terrain had changed to more of a canyon wild west feel. 

We journeyed on into the canyon and I turned into a backwater cove where I had seen wild horses numerous times. Yes, luck smiled on us. There down by the water were some wild horses and they were even the ones I had photographed for the past 2 years. One gray mare and her foal in particular and it was amazing to see them again and to see how much that foal had grown. Josie, to say the least, was over the top with excitement. They were some distance away from us but to see them was fantastic.

We left them with the promise to check back when we returned from the canyon to see if they were any closer. Continuing on down the canyon, we were greeted with beautiful views of the Pryor Mountains and the wide-open valleys and ravines that covered this area. 

The canyon did not have the amount of wildlife that I was used to seeing here. I was a little disappointed at the lack of sheep, bear and wild horses. We made our way up to the canyon overlook and was gifted with wonderful views from above the canyon. 

Big Horn Canyon Overlook

Just about the time we decided to give up on the wildlife, a family of Big Horn Sheep made their way down to the parking lot. Yes....finally. Even though there were only lambs and ewes, we were ok with that. 

After watching the sheep for a while, we started back to check on the horses. They had moved away from the water, but we could actually see them better and get a few photos.

We decided to head to Cody to find our accommodations for the evening and the trip from the canyon to town was uneventful. We found our motel and checked in. Then the trouble started. Next door was a family with problems. Problems in the name of unruly children, loud, yelling parents and paper-thin walls. Oh yeah, the young boy's name was Kevin...great!! It was decided to head out down the river for a little side trip before dark and to get away from the Bundys.

Hoping for a peaceful night, we returned about dark. The turmoil was still churning next door. So, we decided to turn on the fan to drown out the hubbub next door and soon it died down for the night. Lucky us. Travel weary and as a result of too much windshield time, it wasn't long before sleep found us, but not before setting the alarm for early. Yellowstone waited for us tomorrow.

Wyoming Bound

 Right up until the truck pulled out of the driveway and it was pointed north, I was not sure the trip was happening. On again, off again and emotional highs and lows kept me in doubt for a few weeks. But medical issues aside, the trip was on! In the passenger seat was a Wyoming first timer and most eager passenger. The early morning air was electric with excitement and expectations. 

I'm a Missouri boy but since my first trip to Wyoming and the Wild West, I've been hooked and even tell folks that Wyoming is my adopted home. My eager passenger who also happens to be my niece, Josie, was more than ready to get out there and see this enchanted land. Because of my autoimmune issues, and my wife Stachia's insistence, I needed a trustworthy traveling companion who, if the occasion presented itself, be someone who would be able to take care of me. This was Josie who was more than capable to take on this task. Besides, the only thing greater than a trip out west is taking someone for their first time. The weather was good, expectations high, truck packed and the event was on.

My least favorite part of the trip is the first 700 miles. Until I cross that Wyoming state line it is just windshield time, music jammin' and a whole lot of flat nothing (Sorry Nebraska). Multiple phone calls seemed to break up the trip a bit. Stachia checking up on me? No. How's Josie? Are you taking care of her? Stopping and taking a break every now and then? Wait a minute here. I thought I was the one who needed looking after... Yes mam, she is fine and we are getting along great. This will not be the last interrogation of me over Josie's wellbeing, but little did they know, it was my pleasure to make sure this trip was perfect.

Periods of talking about various subjects, periods of extended silence and a whole lot of singing to the radio kept us sane across the Great Plains. After a mandatory stop and mother approved bathrooms, we crossed the Missouri River from Iowa to Nebraska and gave Josie her first new state. Little did we know it was to be a trip filled with construction zones, one after another. So many that it became the joke of the trip. Leaving Lincoln, you guessed it, a construction zone getting on I-80, we were finally and officially westward bound. Our goal for the day was a little town in central Wyoming called Wheatland, about 800 miles into the trip. But first, crossing into Wyoming the phone rang...another Josie checkup. We gained Josie another state.

Eastern Wyoming is full of rolling hills, desert and a whole lot of wide-open spaces. I assured Josie that the better and more scenic part of the state lay ahead and not to judge until all the evidence was in. Reaching Cheyenne, we turned north through more wide-open spaces and vistas as far as you can see. After Cheyenne, there is a definite lack of rest stops, connivence stores or any other civilization. Just antelopes and desert. I expected a phone call but luckily there was no cell service. Pulling into the small town of Chugwater, I was redeemed. Rest stop, bathroom duties done and a cooler check later, we were back on the road. The cooler was our version of the refrigerator and cafe combo, road trip style.

We pulled into Wheatland just before dark and got our room. Day number one under our belts and it was time for a good night's rest and back on the road tomorrow. The Motel 6 felt the need to decorate their lobby with spooky, scary doll's heads for Halloween. I could have done without that nightmare. 

Tomorrow....Big Horn Mountains and Big Horn Canyon.

Eagles, Canyons and Mulies

We went to bed that night after Devil's Tower with tales of snow showers forecasted on our intended route across the Big Horn Mountains. No big deal, we have a 4 wheel drive and me and Stachia are veterans of whiteouts. By the way, if you ever find yourself in Buffalo Wyoming and needing accommodations, the friendly folks at the Super 8 will more than meet your needs. Anyway, after a great night of rest we tackled the mountains. The aforementioned snow shower did not appear, just a few flurries and nothing to worry about. Wyoming weather is extremely unpredictable and changes without notice but this time it behaved itself.
Climbing up out of Buffalo is not that daunting. It's a gradual slope that takes you high into the Big Horns without the terror of switchbacks and hair raising drop-offs. Coming down the other side though is a bit different and the journey into Tensleep Canyon is a treat for those who are not vertically scared.

I have seen Moose and Elk up in the Big Horns but sadly on this trip we didn't see any. But the scenery didn't disappoint and I believe the Squad did just fine with the elevation and switchbacks. I get a little worried when that many women together don't have any complaints. But apparently Wyoming has a way of smoothing things over and new sights and adventures can inspire us to higher levels of being. I'm gonna go with that.
I am the driver so.....never being one to take the direct route, I planned a scenic side trip through what is known as The Gooseberry Creek Badlands. This little lesser known gem is well worth the extra 2 or 3 miles to experience. Although not on a grand scale like the South Dakota Badlands, it has it charms and beauty.

Gooseberry Creek Badlands

Cody Wyoming is now about 100 miles away with some wide open country to travel through. Personally I like the wide open range country but a certain person of the group does not. She doesn't find it appealing as I do and I have to give her some slack because...well...she is from Oregon.
I'm not sure if you know this or not but I am a wildlife guy. If I'm not actively engaged in looking for wildlife, I'm plotting my next trip to look for wildlife. Luckily I'm in Wyoming so wildlife is not a problem to find. While we were hurtling down the highway at racing speed I see a Golden Eagle parked on a fence post. Without regard for my passengers concerns I put the vehicle into "Eagle Mode" and rapidly shut it down. I hear groans of concern from behind me but I ain't got time for that now. I am as well in "Eagle Mode" and no time to be diplomatic. I did however make sure the vehicle was in park before exiting with Nikon in hand.
Most Golden Eagles will tolerate spectators to a certain degree but I was in stealth mode just to be sure. I used the vehicle to shield myself in order to get the shots I wanted. Meanwhile the Menopause Squad rolled down their windows and commenced to loudly admire my target. So much for stealth.
Eagles have excellent vision and hearing but true to form this one was not annoyed by me or the extra noise. I managed to get some good photos before he'd had enough and changed fence posts.

Golden Eagle and a fence post.

Golden Eagle leaving the fence post.

The eagle flew off and I returned to the vehicle and saw all smiles from inside. It's not everyday you get to see a big guy go into stealth mode and stalk an eagle. Returning to my driving duties and just a few miles later we spotted some Mule Deer going up a ravine, so the process of stopping our progress down the highway was repeated but this time we went into "Mule Deer Mode".

Mule Deer

I don't get too excited about Mulies as I do with eagles but it was Nikon worthy and warranted a stop. Ok, on to Cody, rest stop, munchies and finally Yellowstone.
Cody is a modern city with all the amenities one would want or need and I knew from experience that someone or someones on the trip would need a stop for various reasons and items so I managed to keep in mind I was the only rugged individual on this trip and allowed for time to soothe those softer souls on board. Without all the flowery words we made a restroom stop and ate lunch. Keep in mind ladies, Yellowstone is only 50 miles away. 50 miles...
The drive from Cody to the East Entrance is reported to be the most scenic 50 miles in America. While not totally agreeing with that statement it is scenic and comes with its own beauty and charm. After leaving the city the road follows the Shoshone River most of the way. It winds along the river valley giving views and vistas that are spectacular and memorable. Various wildlife species can be seen here including bears, bison, elk, moose, eagles and big horn sheep.

Buffalo Bill Cody Lake

Barb, Tammy and Fern

Tammy and Stachia along the Shoshone River.

Our marrying place.

Happy faces....equals happy driver.

One Arkansawyer and one Oregonian in Wyoming.

We followed the river and found a few stops to get out and experience nature. We also showed the travelers where me and Stachia got married. It was a simple outdoor chapel on a mountainside high above the river. 
Yellowstone is a short 10 miles....let's go ladies...10 miles...

Thanks for following our adventures and the next time.....YELLOWSTONE!!!